Your Weekly Voilà: Paris' Charming Covered Passageways 💕🇫🇷

Imagine Paris in the 19th century. It's raining - hard. Those unpaved roads winding throughout the city would be transformed into a muddy mess, thwarting a possible promenade or a bit of shopping by Parisian High Society.

To counter the situation, covered passageways or arcades were constructed to provide a comfortable, dry place for individuals to escape the elements. With the new invention of gas lighting, the glass and iron arcades created a warm and well-lit experience. Shops, cafés, and theaters flourished in the galeries. No expense was spared in their construction; architects installed mosaic floors, trompe l'oeil marble columns, and ornamental plaster bas-reliefs. This luxurious setting became a hub of social life where the new bourgeois society could be seen.

By 1850, there were over 150 arcades built in Paris. But the development of Haussmann's wide boulevards and grand department stores such as Galleries Lafayette, Printemps, and La Samaritaine would see many of the arcades destroyed to make way for new shopping experiences.

Today, around 25 covered passageways remain in Paris.

Let's take a peek at a few of my favorites.

The few remaining 19th-century galeries are a must-experience when you next visit Paris. Each one houses tea salons, cafés, and boutique shops. You'll find the lovely tea salon À Priori Thé in the elegant covered passageway known as Galerie Vivienne in the 2nd arrondissement. You can sip your beverage of choice beneath the exquisite glass ceiling.

It was built in 1823 and is considered one of the most luxurious of all the arcades in the city. The architect, François-Jacques Delannoy, spared no expense in adding gas lighting, Italian mosaic floors, and neoclassical touches including paintings and sculptures.

Find this galerie at 5 Rue de la Banque.

Just one street over, you can discover its long-time rival, Galerie Colbert, built just a few years later. The central atrium is the current home to the Institut National d'Historie de l'Art and the Institut National du Patrimoine. There are no longer shops in Le Grand Colbert but you can enjoy a meal in a classic Parisian brasserie featured in the 2003 film, Something's Gotta Give.

Located at 2 Rue Vivienne.

Step back in time in one of Paris' hidden,
19th-century shopping arcades.

Perhaps a surprise rain finds you when you are strolling through Montmartre in the 9th. Not to worry. Some of Paris' best galeries are in this neighborhood. The Passage Jouffroy is a treasure to be experienced. Constructed in 1845, this was the first Parisian passage built entirely of metal and glass. It's a charming arcade filled with old bookshops and art supply boutiques. The last time I visited, there was an old-fashioned umbrella shop, Gallerie Fayet. Enjoy the pastries at Le Valentin where everything is made on the premises. I stop at Dammann Frères for a pot of green tea perfumed with bergamot, peaches, orange blossom and violet flowers. The name of this delightful tea is Nuit à Versailles - Night at Versailles. This highly fragrant blend is truly worthy of the name.

Find Passage Jouffroy at 9 Rue de La Grange Bateliere and 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre in the 9th Arrondissement.

Built by the same company as Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau has its entrance just opposite. It was one of the last arcades to be built in 1847. Here you'll find more bookshops and antiques. Many of the original architectural elements remain such as the elegant neoclassical glass ceiling and the pink and black stone floors.

Find the entrances to Passage Verdeau at 31 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre and 6 Rue de la Grange Bateliere, the 9th Arrondissement.

One more to explore just nearby. Passage des Panoramas is one of the oldest covered galeries in Paris, built in 1800. It was named for two rotundas with panoramic paintings of Paris and other cities which are no longer there. Sadly, the rotundas were destroyed in 1831 as part of a renovation project. Heavy sigh. But you can still find stamp-collecting shops, vintage postcard stalls, and plenty of cafés just as you would in the early 19th century.

Find Passage des Panoramas at 11 Boulevard Montmartre (opposite the entrance to Passage Jouffroy).

There are 21 covered passageways left in Paris. Some are a bit derelict now but many retain their beautiful 19th-century features and are home to quaint independent shops and cafés. Each provides a getaway from the chaos of Paris' boulevards. I think of them as a refuge, a little hideaway tucked in between big buildings on busy streets.

It's easy to let the hours slip away as you browse the shops and sip a favorite tea. Your only itinerary is to meander through the space admiring the beautiful architecture and taking in the feeling of 19th-century Paris. It's difficult not to become nostalgic for days gone by.

There's no better way to spend a rainy day in Paris.
Karen 🇫🇷