Your Weekly Voilà: Mustard is a Must in any French Pantry 😊🌱🇫🇷

Let's be clear. Not all mustards are created equal. There are some French varieties that just make your tastebuds so happy. I'm not talking Grey Poupon. I'm referring to Moutarde de Bourgogne or mustard from Burgundy, France.

A trip to the charming town of Beaune in Burgundy must include a visit to Edmond Fallot's moutarderie or mustard factory. Mustard in this region has been an artisan tradition since the early 14th century. It was mainly used among the poor as a replacement for pepper. But during the early Renaissance, mustard began to find its place on the tables of French nobility. By the 17th and 18th centuries, aromatic mustards were prized, serving as examples of refinement and wealth. Hundreds and hundreds of moutarderies in the region competed for the growing business.

Today, Edmond Fallot is the last family-owned and operated Burgundian mustard factory that still uses traditional stone milling methods. Important because heat from modern machinery "burns" the mustard seed and alters the taste. For incomparable taste and flavor, it must be milled by hand with the finest seed. A Moutarde de Bourgogne must be made with mustard seed grown in Burgundy and local French wine. The factory and museum are a bit kitschy but I loved it nonetheless. The best part was tasting all the varieties of mustard. So delicious. My favorite, however, is still the simple local Burgundy mustard.

If I was to farm in France, I would be thinking about mustard as a cash crop. For a small garden, a few plants are absolutely necessary and easily self-sow year after year.

The Fallot family's secret to creating award-winning mustard is the ancestral technique of millstone grinding. Mustard paste is extremely sensitive to heat so the method of using large grinding stones such as the ancient one above preserves the delicate and strong taste of the seed.

Mustard is in the Brassica family along with broccoli and cauliflower. It is so easy to grow. Self-sows every spring. Wet. Dry. Sun. A bit of shade. Truly, zero effort needed on this plant. I think of it more as an herb full of all sorts of goodness. Both the leaves and seeds are a rich source of minerals such as calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, and potassium. In addition, mustard is a good source of dietary folate, vitamin A and vitamin C. Add a few mustard greens to your salad for a delicious "snap."

The soil in the region surrounding Dijon is moist and rich in organic material, making it ideal to cultivate strong and tasty grains. But truly, you can grow this herb anywhere. If you have it, add a bit of wood ash or potash to the bed or container. Mustard loves it!

When I am in Burgundy, I pick up a few bags of mustard seeds both for gifts and for my personal use. Into the garden some seed goes and the rest sees my mortar and pestle. With a bit of patience, making mustard is an easy venture. All you need are mustard seeds, vinegar or white wine or a combination of both, and salt. I like to soak the mustard seeds with the wine and/or vinegar for a couple of days in a glass bowl. A metal bowl gives the mustard a bit of an off taste, so use glass. Add salt to the softened mixture and grind with a mortar and pestle. Of course, you can make light work of the process by using a food processor but remember . . . you could burn the seed. Tradition holds that you use a stone and grind away until you have a paste.

Voilà! You have made mustard. Store covered in the fridge and it will last several months.

Now that you have created a fabulous mustard, my favorite way to use this condiment is in salad dressings. As we know from most French kitchens, the most important part of any salad is the dressing. Since you are using just a few simple ingredients, you need to make them quality. Your homemade mustard will add the perfect slight "bite" on the tongue.

Here is my go-to French vinaigrette recipe:

1 small shallot, finely chopped
6 tablespoons of quality oil but not olive - overpowers the dressing
2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon of coarse sea salt
1/4 teaspoon of freshly ground pepper

Combine the vinegar, mustard, shallots, salt and pepper in a bowl. Allow to sit for 10 minutes or so. Slowly add the oil while whisking until the mixture is well blended. Pour over the greens just before serving, being careful not to overdress. You can always add more to the salad if need be. Gently toss and serve.

Mustard is an easy plant to grow and gather seeds. Tall with sweet yellow flowers, it makes a pretty addition to your herb garden. I have a whole section dedicated to mustard in my new potager; it easily self-sows each spring. It also grows well in containers. Add a leaf or two to your salad or sandwich. Absolutely delicious.

You can save you mustard seed for the following year's planting or just allow the plants to self-sow. I keep a bit of the mustard seed each season to make mustard, but I also use the seed to brew a tea to help with respiratory issues such as bronchitis.

Think about adding mustard to your herb garden this month and perhaps ordering some true Edmond Fallot Moutarde de Bourgogne from a local artisan shop. You will love the taste as it dances on your tongue without simply heading straight for the nose. It is far more delicate of a condiment than you might think.

Have a delicious weekend,
Karen 😊🌱🍴🇫🇷